The night slowly waltz in with gentle, naive steps of certainty. Late September air is comforting with trembling mixture of promise and nervousness, alongside of joyous tunes of Slovenian traditional folklore music, danced to by couples clad in traditional dresses to compliment marvelous occasion – the start of Julian Alps Trail 100 k category. Runners gather along the start line at the town medieval, historical center, and for a fraction of time become an epicenter of everyone’s attention. Radovlicja hosts the beginning of our journey. Anticipation is cut by ‘Conquest of paradise’ by Vangelis and countdown. With the word start, almost 400 runners embark on the journey.
Tension dissipates altogether with doubt and both are replaced by excitement from surroundings and early grind. All of us are guided out of Radovlicja, across the alpine bridge which we’re instructed to walk across, not to run. Once we hit forest we’re on our own. The nature opens up and greets us. Even though it’s dark and only source of light is head torch on runners head, all other senses seem to sharpen up, and the grounds and places entered bare magnificent, almost serious notion. Air swooshes through crowns of the trees, light breeze dashes along the path and only disturbance to silence is breathing and treading of runners. The first gentle climb feels satisfying. I have a wonderful time. It’s refreshing to be back on trails of running world. I can’t help, but smile. I feel satisfaction bordering with cockiness. And as we know what comes up has to eventually come down. No matter if it’s a plane, ego or trajectory of life, tests of fluctuations are unavoidable. I get to first aid station at 12th kilometer, brimming with joy. It’s pleasant to see crowd of people and bright lights. The tent is crowded and waiting time for refreshments is lengthy. I grab handful of nuts, chocolate and cheese, while my water bottles are being topped up. With thanks, I run into dark force of the forest, munching down leftovers in my hands. I’m light on my feet and my thoughts are getting lost under the rustling twigs and leafs, when suddenly left side of my face is splashed by fluid. As I don’t want to loose precious time I don’t elaborate and I keep on going. I wipe my face down and pat myself to find out where did the fluid came from. I realize that a little rubber in the nozzle of my water bottle came out under the pressure and is lost in the vast darkness of the forest floor. I consider to turn around and have a look, but I opt out of this option, as doing so in dark conditions when one barely sees ahead, and going against the stream runners behind me on narrow path would be waste of time, energy and risky. This means that water bottle won’t hold any water within it. Or it will, but while I run it will all spill out as the seal protection has been lost. Splendid. I’m going to face the rest of the race with one 500 ml water bottle. I try to remain composed and look for solutions. There are none.
By the time I get to second aid station in Kupljenik, 22 kilometers whizzed by. I got first descends under my belt on cushy forest floor, as well as an appetizer of rocks of all shapes and sizes, testing my shoes toe box. Supporters at aid station sing and dance into the night, encouraged by music blasting from radio and few Laskos (popular Slovenian beer). I have soup and crisps, cola to settle the stomach and electrolytes to gain lost salts and increase travel of oxygen through my blood. The plan to utilize my malfunctioned water bottle is to drink bit more at each aid station and to top the bottle up and hold it in my hand when leaving the station until I drink it. Simples. This is highly inconvenient and I’m certain that in latter stages it won’t work due to tiredness and having hiking poles in hands instead. I try and to at various stages whether anyone is in possession of spare water bottle or at least a cover to keep fluids in, but each and every time I receive the most unsatisfactory, two letter word that humanity invented – no. Never mind. I carry on and marvel about clear, vast sky, vivid star constellations stretching into distance afar, and how fortunate I’m to be in this lovely corner of planet. I ponder why would people go into wars if there’s such immersive beauty around us. The majestic power of nature. Dominant and humble at the same time. I find myself alone on path by the plane, separated from runners in front and behind. My mind enters serene state, when the shuffle of feet approaching from behind prick up my ears. Young lady dashed by with a brisk smile and focused eyes, followed by a chunk of a man with neutral gaze, and cheerful voice : ‘Hey man, you wanna hop on?’ Meaning if I want to join their running pack. ‘Why not.’ I replied dryly, separated from my reverie. Who would say that this was a beginning of camaraderie that carried us through the race and at different moments, ignites light that at times faltered within each one of us.
Girl’s name is Marta, and not only that she’s comes from Poland (as well as my Jules), but she’s also from Poznan (as well as my Jules!). As a team, we created a pact that we’re running all descents and straights, but hike on steep climbs. Marta is coy, pleasant and focused. On the other hand, Kris, who’s from Germany, speaks for all three of us. In Podhom, 32.5 km, I know Kris’ personal life in & out, altogether with his aims, goals and views of the World. He runs to beat this record and become first German to beat that record and run this in Germany that no other German ran in Germany in that time, anytime, ever. I admire his young tenacity. Blunt and boisterous. Reminds me of one fella back in a day, even though there’s just over a decade difference between us, but the gained experience and maturity is priceless. We plow on and get to Lake Bled, we round it and it’s a sight to behold. Even with low visibility caused by night, we savor the sheer beauty of the Pilgrimage Church seated onto Bled Island.
We reach Zirovnica, the aid station to be reached by 23:00, five hours ahead of cut off point. With 40 km in our legs, we’re grooving. We get into a sports hall with refreshments and drop off zone for bags with change of clothes. Kris changes shoes and applies ton of sun cream to be ready for the morning sun and the heat it’s going to deliver in the mountains. Me and Marta just chill eating soup, drinking coffee and getting mental frame right before the biggest challenge on this run, reaching Mt. Stol. Plan is to get to the top upon sunrise, but the elevation is going to be hard work, yet it’s only 9 km reach it. Another wave of electrifying excitement kicks in and we’re out to tackle the task at hand. Appetizer is a steep climb on asphalt path and then into alpine meadows. We can hear cows, but it’s so dark we’re unable to see nothing more that shades. As forest closes all around us, the going gets tougher, steeper, and then I see the headlamps of runners ahead of us, bouncing up and down, high, at the top and across the ridge, almost touching the stars. The climb is brutal and we barely walk. It’s a snail pace. Marta occasionally let’s it all out through massive roar, which gives me and Kris a push. We balance on steep, narrow paths with dramatic drops only step away. Trail becomes very technical and we start to become frail. Marta starts to puke, Kris slows down aching and I’m out of water and my feet on fire. Sun is slowly creeping up and temperature picks up. The entire climb takes us almost 5 hours and we claim the top all separate. All desperation and strain is swept away by the views that open up when we set foot to Presernova Koca. Triglav National Park is majestically reaching towards heights, over the valley below us. The peaks and Karawankas are waking up from morning clouds, air is crystal clear, light. I take the views in and it cheers my heart and drives tears into my eyes. Gratitude of the untouched beauty floods every inch of my being.
The run continues over Karawanks ridge. It proves to be huge mistake to think that once Mt. Stol is out of the equation and complete, the rest is going to be smooth ride. Mentally, I hit a wall and only repeat the mantra to myself of putting one leg in front of another. The trail is up and down, and views are breathtaking. I come across a refuge, where couple of locals are chilling and since I’m out of the water most of the times I ask for some. I get a beer as bonus and we chat for a little. They offer me even something stronger to clench my thirst, but I politely refuse and bid goodbye. I leave a little elevated, but still struggle to find a rhythm, to connect. I start to fall behind cut off time and my calculations are that I’m on the verge of succeeding or failing. I got to get it together, NOW. And then it happens. Julia sends me photo of finisher medals accompanied by text ‘Do you want it? Then pick up the pace!’ That seem to unlock my Pandora’s box. The brain fog dissipates and I’m able to tap into resources that I thought are not coming up to play. I picked up the pace and started to grind with one vision in my mind – crossing the finish line and getting the silverware no matter what it costs me. I stumble upon Marta again, and Ali, who I remember from start line. Ali doesn’t have hiking poles and uses two tree branches to support himself. When we descent from the ridge it gets easier over the macadam roads going up and down. Our group increases in number of runners closer to the finish line and as we approach last check point ahead of cut off time, I feel overcome by relief. We all start to have great banter and transition into chilled walk, or more likely a hobble, other than anything else even remotely reminding running or hiking. However, last 8k seem to be never ending. One more incline into forest, then onto tarmac road and back into wilderness. I feel like going in circles around Kranjska Gora. Then, out of nowhere, I see a bridge that I have recollection of when going Lake Jasna. Further ahead few twists and turns through picturesque alleys of Kranjska Gora, leading into finish line in it’s center. ‘YEEEEEEEEEEAAAH!!!’ I let it ripple through the town when I cross the finish line. It’s great to see Maris there, who came from England to run 25k, and is my pal, as well as other runners who I met along the trail. We hug all it out. The place is overrun by emotions mixed with tiredness and disbelief that it’s been done. The weight of the medal is the most gratifying feeling. Even more so, as with upcoming hours and days my body and mind unite to realize what it took to get it done. How little I was prepared due to personal obstacles during the year, yet grateful that I could have come here and compete. I’m shattered, yet over the moon. I learn from Marta that Kris didn’t finish as he twisted his ankle and was forced the pull out. Something tells me that this is not the last I’ve seen of him. As well as Marta and Ali. Great friendships are made on trails, in suffering and overcoming obstacles. I look around myself and I know that this is not last time I’m here. I’m in love with this place and Julian Alps, Slovenia etched into my heart experiences that are going to stay with me forever. Writing this article, I’m already registered for next year’s run. The knowledge of it excites and spurs me into training.
As Dean Karnazes says, ‘If you want run, run a mile. If you want to change your life, run a marathon. If you want to talk to God, run an ultra.’ And I relish close conversations with Him very much.



